Two days in Capri

With only two days in Capri, we were able to see quite a lot the island’s famous sights. Once settled into our accommodation in Anacapri, I was happy with the decision to stay overnight instead of visiting along with all the day trippers from Sorrento and Positano. 

With two days we were able to do the following at a semi-relaxed pace:

• Have drinks next to the very sand-less Faro Beach
• Wander the ruins and take in the sunset at the Roman Villa of Damecuta
• Walk the Pizzo Lungo trail with its views of the Faraglioni and the Natural Arch
• Stroll the Giardino di Augusto
• Enjoy a gelato from Buonocore Gelateria
• Take the chairlift up to Mount Salaro 
• Eat lots of delicious food at restaurants in Anacapri

Here’s how we spent our two days in Capri. 

Ferry from Positano to Capri

We arrived on Capri from Positano taking the 10am ferry. While I wouldn’t normally write about a ferry journey, this one was a bit unique. As we were waiting to board the ferry, a very fit Italian man was loading the luggage. While not unusual, he also happened to be shirtless. It seemed like something out of tv ad, and I was looking around for cameras to see if it was real or not. Unfortunately, there’s no photo evidence but the sight will forever live in my memory!

Arrival on Capri Island and the transfer to Anacapri

Getting from the ferry to Anacapri was easy, yet time consuming. Buses depart from the far end of the jetty area (turn right when getting off the ferry and follow the crowds). This is also where the taxis queue. The line for the bus ended up being three bus loads long. I should mention the buses come by every 15 minutes or so.

Quite a few people gave up waiting and hopped into a convertible taxi instead. For 20 euros, it’s an expensive, yet fashionable way to travel. If I had known how long of a walk it would be from the main road to the accommodation, I probably would have gone with the more expensive taxi!

Accommodation in Anacapri

We were staying in a small B&B called Casetta Minghitto, with its courtyard complete with a row of citrus trees. Our host and Luigi could not have been nicer. This little slice of peaceful heaven was located a 10 minute walk from “downtown” Anacapri, on the west and more quiet side of the island.

The bus travels from the jetty, up the very windy road to Anacapri town and continues down to Faro. Since the B&B was on the road heading towards the blue grotto, we’d need to change buses. Not knowing when the buses would come by and the relatively short distance, we always walked. With luggage it was hot but after a few trips back and forth, it didn’t seem as long.

Time for lunch in Anacapri

By the time we dropped off our bags, it was well past lunch time so we walked into Anacapri town for some food. The first restaurant we came across was La Rondinella and it had a lovely outdoor patio area on the laneway side. I had one of my favourite dishes of the trip there – a vegetarian pasta dish – that may not look like much, but I still think about its cheesy, creamy sauce months later!

Going for a swim at Faro Beach

Despite being the end of April, the sun was shining and it was pretty warm. For me that means it’s time to find a beach. Luigi told us the best beach on the island was Faro Beach, and was just a short bus ride away.

While not far on the map, pretty much everywhere you go is up or down a hill and there’s no way I’d want to walk there from Anacapri town. Instead, the bus dropped us off in the car park for the faro (lighthouse). Set next to the beach is a very inviting bar called Bar Malibu. While on the expensive side, the drinks were refreshing and couldn’t look any prettier.

A beach without sand. Say what?

I was a bit disappointed with the beach, given its complete lack of sand. It was fairly popular on the day with sun tanners, though they were more prepared with something a bit more comfortable than a single towel covering the concrete. The water hadn’t quite warmed up yet for summer, with the only people in the water being teenage boys daring each other to jump in.

Sunset wine at the Roman Villa of Damecuta

After some refreshments, it was back on the bus to Anacapri to walk over to the north west part of the island to check out the Roman Villa of Damecuta. With a lack of signs, it was tricky to find but my handy google maps app helped lead the way down Via Grotto Azzurro. It was a lovely walk through the “suburbs” of Anacapri and then to some pretty unforgettable ocean views.

Once in the park we were alone except when a lady came by with her dog and then the groundskeeper who closed the gate at dusk. With a bottle of red in hand, we had a glass of vino, watching the sunset over the Bay of Naples. It was so quiet and peaceful, and while surrounded by 2,000 year old ruins, it felt like we were on a different planet. The serenity was short lived when a group of teenagers decided to hop the fence and hang out on the ruins. Still one of my favourite places on the island and highly recommended for sunset.

Dinner in Anacapri

It was back to Anacapri town for dinner. After doing a full circle of the narrow streets of the small town centre, we decided on pasta and pizza at Bar Ristorante Materita. The meal was ok but the service could be improved. It felt like the waiter forgot about us after our food came. On a positive note, the atmosphere was great, sitting outside at street level watching all the people coming and going with their takeaway pizzas. It must be the pizza hot spot in town.

Walking the Pizzolungo on the Capri side of the island

We figured out a trick for using the buses on Capri. Get on them early before the day trippers arrive. Though we waited 30 minutes for the bus that comes by every 15 minutes, when it arrived, it only had five people on it so we were able to sit down.

The bus dropped us off in Capri, a short walk to the Piazzetta. Similar to the bus, the piazzetta was very quiet and would not be recognisable a few hours later when we returned. Breakfast was a cappuccino and a cornetto integral at the bar costing 8 euros (2.50 each for a cappuncino and 1.50 for a cornetto). It would have been more than double that if we’d sat down, but there was a no time to sit, because it was time to walk the Pizzo Lungo. This is the trail that all day I would call the Pizza Lungo.

First views of the Faraglioni

Leaving the Piazzetta, the downhill walk passes by a number of beautiful hotels and villas (I’d love to know how much they cost a night!). A few minutes later, we reached a viewing platform at Belvedere Tragara for a photo, and for the first glimpse of the Faraglioni and views of the coast.

Continuing downhill we reached even better views of the Faraglioni. I didn’t know anything about them other than they are three rocks sticking out of the ocean. In person, I have to say, they are pretty spectacular.

You get a coastal view, you get a coastal view. You all get a coastal view!

Continuing along the path, the views keep coming and coming. This has to be one of the most picturesque walks I’ve been on. And at the end of April, the weather could not have been more perfect.

While a lot of the walk comes with coastal views, eventually the path turns inland and you find yourself walking through the woods surrounded by ginormous trees. At the bottom of the trail, there’s a giant cave that on a hot day, would make a nice cool spot for a break. Because then the stairs start. While I’m normally pretty good with stairs, we were both still sore from the Path of the Gods walk (yes a few days later) so it made for a bit of a tricky walk.

The Arch Naturale

More steps, more views and then a whole lot of steps back up, there’s a cafe and then five minutes further is the Arch Naturale.

I didn’t know what to expect when it came to the Natural Arch (Arch Naturale). Come to find out, it’s a huge, natural looking arch. Go figure! Looking down at the azzurro water below, the boats kept arriving, circuling then leaving one after another. I’d like to see it next time from the ocean side.

Back to Capri Town

After viewing the Arch from the three different viewing areas, it was a lovely, flat stroll back into Capri town. The Piazzetta was much more busy by midday. The quiet streets were fairly busy and the sleepy town area was very much awake.

Lunch would have to wait because it was gelato time at Buonocore Gelateria. The only ‘must-do’ on my food list was some gelato-goodness from this shop, which I came to find out is so much more than just gelato. The gelateria also has a large selection of pastries and the smell inside the cafe is drool-worthy. I could easily eat my body weight in pastries from this shop.

Giardini di Augusto

Now full of gelato, it was back downhill to visit the Giardini di Augusto. We went for the flower gardens and stayed for the views. We found an empty bench with gorgeous vistas eastwards along the coast and downwards to Via Krupp. At 2 euros entry fee, it’s a lovely garden and more views.

Mount Solaro Chairlift

After our exciting day on the east side of the island, it was back to Anacapri to ride the chairlift to the top of Mount Solaro. I wasn’t sure what to expect, since my experience with chairlifts tend to involve snow. It was a bit tricky to get on as it swings around, but it was a lovely trip up the ‘mountain’. Unfortunately someone a few chairs ahead of me thought it was a good idea to have a cigarette. Seriously, some people don’t have a clue!

The ride takes about 18 minutes with views over Anacapri town. At the top there are 360 degree views of the Faragalini, Capri town, Mount Vesuvius and Ischia.

Why take the chairlift down when you can walk?

We decided to walk back down the very rocking and dirty path which didn’t provide many views after the first half. This brought us back into town on Munthe road which has some shops on the quiet street and lots of tourist shops.

Final dinner in Anacapri

After a big day of sightseeing, we stayed in Anacapri for dinner, eating at La Taberna degli Amici. It was a nice evening and we wanted to eat outside. I’d picked this restaurant after seeing it highly rated on Tripadvisor. Unfortunately, the outside eating area is on the main road so it’s quite noisy, especially with the motorbikes buzzing past. Instead of our usual alfresco dining, we ate inside the cozy dining area and had some pretty good food. The service really made the meal though, with the staff making us feel like we were eating in the home of a long lost Italian cousin.

Farewell Capri

In the morning we arranged a transfer through the B&B to the ferry terminal. No more hiking with bags this time around! I wouldn’t normally write about a ferry transfer, but this one was a bit memorable.

When I bought the ticket, the sign with all the ferries and their jetty numbers and the lady who sold me the ticket, all said the ferry would be leaving from jetty 32. We waited next to the sign and there was no ferry. While we were waiting, a ferry arrived and disembarked its passengers three spots away. At the last minute I went over and asked one of the ferry workers if it was the right ferry to Sorrento, and ‘surprise!’ it was. We made it with about a full minute to spare.

Hot tip – just because everything tells you your ferry’s leaving from a specific spot, doesn’t mean that’s what’s going to happen. Ask for help if something doesn’t seem right!

The ferry ride to Sorrento had about 20 people on it. The queue for the ferry to Capri when we arrived in Sorrento had about 300 people waiting to board. It’s always nice to be going against the crowd!

Our next stop on our trip to Southern Italy was the seaside town of Sorrento. Click here to continue reading.

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